Getaway: A Classic Beach Vacation in Cape Cod
Lobster rolls, whale watching, and hydrangeas everywhere. Here’s how to revel in the summer splendor.
Sailing near Chatham Bars Inn / Photograph by Conor Doherty
Like most Philadelphians, I venture to the Jersey Shore when I need my toes in the sand and a breezy respite from city living. But sometimes a different beach beckons — and with preppy vibes trending everywhere from the runway to home decor, now seems as good a time as any to head to an American classic: Cape Cod. Just a quick flight from Philly, this famously idyllic region promises laid-back energy, historic charm, loaded lobster rolls, and on-the-water fun. And you know what? It delivers.
Day One
The Bayview Cottage at Chatham Bars Inn / Photograph courtesy of Chatham Bars Inn
After a 90-minute nonstop flight — American flies direct from PHL to Hyannis in the summer months — head to Chatham, the elbow of the Cape. Your home base is Chatham Bars Inn (rooms from $621), an elegant New England resort that offers rooms with ocean views and stand-alone cottages, a private beach, and a full-service spa. Drop your bags and hit the property’s open-air Beach House Grill for arguably the best lobster roll on the Cape. (See below for a breakdown.) After lunch, admire seemingly endless blue and purple blooms along Shore Road, where you’ll pass by a stunning private residence known as Hydrangea Walk. (The annual Hydrangea Festival is set for July 10th through 19th.) Tour the cast-iron-plated Chatham Lighthouse — you can climb 44 steps to the top — before exploring Main Street, which boasts theaters, boutiques (I loved Mahi Gold for modern coastal looks), souvenir shops (like Ducks in the Window, recognized as the world’s largest rubber duck store!), and restaurants (including The Impudent Oyster, which has been around since the ’70s). Your nightcap? A loaded ice cream bar from Buffy’s and karaoke at Chatham Squire, a lively local haunt.
Day Two
Chatham Lighthouse / Photograph by Faabi/Getty Images
Day two is all about Dennis, a town about 25 minutes northwest of Chatham. Fuel up with house-roasted coffee and pastries at woman- and veteran-owned Three Fins Coffee Roasters before a classical reformer Pilates workout at Après Sea Pilates, now in its third summer season. No trip into Dennis is complete without a hearty fish sandwich or cuppa clam chowder at Sesuit Harbor Cafe, a seafood shack serving breakfast and lunch right at the marina. The town is also home to the Cape Cod Art Museum, where you can peruse the works of regional creators. (“Life During the American Revolution,” an exhibit showcasing maps, fashion, furniture, and the like in celebration of America’s 250th birthday, runs until July 19th.) Wind down from the day with drinks at Baleine — the wine, cocktail, and oyster bar that opened last summer and spins a great vinyl collection — and dinner at LUNE. The 2025 James Beard semifinalist for best new restaurant serves seasonal dishes with hyper-local ingredients (the menu changes weekly) in a former gas station garage. The grand finale: A show at the Cape Playhouse — this summer, catch Into the Woods, Hairspray, and Mean Girls.
Day Three
Whale watching on Cape Cod / Photograph courtesy of Dolphin Fleet
Spend your last day at “the end of the world,” aka Provincetown, out on the Cape’s tip. This welcoming seaside hamlet is considered the birthplace of recreational whale watching in the U.S. — and lucky for you, peak season runs through October. (Book a tour cruise with Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch.) Ptown is an enclave for creatives, so visits to the Provincetown Art Association and Museum and the Fine Arts Work Center are musts. Stroll along Commercial Street to shop — Vintage in Vogue is great for retro apparel — and snack. Try Portuguese Bakery for pastries and savory croissants, and Pop + Dutch for sandwiches. Marvel at the towering Pilgrim Monument, which commemorates the Mayflower Pilgrims’ first landfall in 1620, before venturing south to Brewster, where you’ll have a four-course, family-style dinner on Chatham Bars Inn’s eight-acre farm. (The farm dinners take place weekly from June to November.) Back at the resort, grab a crisp glass of wine and watch night fall from an Adirondack chair on the terrace — the perfect summer weekend.
The Anatomy of an Amazing Lobster Roll
Lobster roll at Sesuit Harbor / Photograph by Madison Wallace
Andrew Chadwick, Chatham Bars Inn’s executive chef, deconstructs the perfectly fresh sandwich.
The Roll
“Brioche has the right amount of butter and egg content, which, when toasted with butter (I prefer unsalted), creates a crispy exterior and a soft interior. Toast over medium heat for two minutes on each side.”
The Lobster
“We use claw and knuckle meat from hard-shell lobsters. Tail meat is not as tender, so save it for another dish.”
The Mayo
“I only use Duke’s — I think it’s the best.”
The Add-Ins
“Keep it simple so the lobster really shines. My go-tos are shallot, celery, lemon juice, celery salt, parsley, and a touch of sour cream.”
Published as “Escaping to Cape Cod” in the June 2026 issue of Philadelphia magazine.
