Anatomy of Manna Bakery’s Signature Pastry
Behind the spirit, love, and Palestinian tradition shaping Saif Manna's za'atar manoushe — the pastry that reminds him most of home
The za’atar manoushe at Manna Bakery / Photograph by Ed Newton
The pastry counter at Kensington’s Manna Bakery is lined with lemon–orange blossom Basque cheesecake, pistachio cookies, and savory batata buns, Palestinian- and Levantine-inspired pastries that connect owner Saif Manna with his culture. But the one specialty Manna feels closest to — the one that brings him back to his grandmother’s home in Jordan, where he spent his summers as a kid — is the za’atar manoushe. The herbaceous scent of the za’atar and fermented dough of the pillowy flatbread is one of Manna’s fondest memories. “Ask anyone from that part of the world about za’atar manoushe, and it will transport them back home,” Manna says. “It really is one of the most important foods you can eat and one of the most important foods in people’s memory.”
Here, Manna shares the stories behind the intentionally sourced ingredients he uses to replicate the flavors of his childhood and celebrate Palestinian culinary traditions.
Za’atar
“Za’atar is king,” Manna says. Sesame seeds, sumac, cumin, za’atar (an herb closely related to oregano), and other spices make up this aromatic cornerstone of Levantine cuisine. Manna used to get his za’atar from his grandmother, but since expanding his bakery, he now sources it from the West Bank.
Dough
To create the manoushe’s light and airy sourdough, Manna uses freshly milled golden spelt and winter or spring wheat flour (depending on the season) from Lost Bread Company.
Pomegranate
Pomegranate season is short, which means when the vibrant red fruit is at its peak almost every Levantine dish gets a few tart seeds sprinkled on top. According to Manna, the earthy spice of the za’atar pairs well with the slightly sour and sweet pomegranate. “Once you have za’atar manoushe topped with pomegranate, you won’t want it any other way,” he says.
Nafas
When Manna asked his grandmother the secret to making manoushe, she’d always say it was nafas — the soul, spirit, and essence of a person and the intangible love that went into her food. “That’s what really sets the stuff we make at Manna Bakery apart,” Manna says. “Everyone who’s taking part in the process has that nafas.”
Published as “Baked With Nafas” in the October 2026 issue of Philadelphia magazine.
