Summer Food: The Tastes of Summer: Hamburgers

If you think “two all-beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions on a sesame-seed bun” is a mouthful, you clearly haven’t tried Brazil’s version of America’s most popular export, the hamburger. This summer, burgers go deluxe at Northeast Philadelphia’s six-month old ­ Brazuca Padaria & Lanchonete (2048 Cottman Avenue; 215-745-4946). Brazilian ex-pats pack in at lunchtime for Portuguese- language satellite TV and soft homemade sesame buns filled with a beef patty, ham, bacon, a fried egg, crispy potato sticks, corn, a pineapple ring, mozzarella, lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. Yes, all on one sandwich. It’s on the menu as the “X-burger.” Regulars pronounce that in Brazilian fashion — “sheesh” burger, like “cheese.”