Getaway: Need a Break From Philly Bustle? Visit Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula

A view of Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula / Photography by Elise Giordano

As a lifestyle and travel editor, my job is to share details about corners of the world that you need to visit. But then I fall in love with a destination and want to keep it a secret. Such is the case with the Leelanau Peninsula, an under-the-radar summer vacation spot on the pinky of Michigan’s mitten. It’s packed with family-owned businesses run by some of the kindest people you’ll meet (that Midwestern hospitality is real), gorgeous scenery — from the waters of Lake Michigan to the cherry orchards that dot the landscape — and wine (truly great wine!) worth bringing home to savor with family and friends, so you can spread the magic of this place too.

Day One

Overlooking the peninsula

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A quick drive from Traverse City (direct seasonal flights run between Cherry Capital Airport and PHL), the Leelanau Peninsula is made up of a handful of adorable towns, each one 15 to 20 minutes away from the next. Stay in Leland, at Falling Waters Lodge (rooms from $419). The inn sits atop a dam; folks fish off their balconies into the Leland River. Across the footbridge is Fishtown, a tiny maritime district that, at first glance, seems a world away from our trendy Philly neighborhood. But look closer. Its weathered shanties house businesses like the standing-room-only Village Cheese shop, whose popularity rivals that of Liberty Kitchen on a Saturday. Grab a sandwich (on pretzel bread) and a hunk of Gouda. Prefer a sit-down meal? Head to Fiddlesticks, in Lake Leelanau, where vinyl records spin and the beanies bearing the restaurant’s name are remarkably similar to your Eagles cap. Then visit Boathouse Vineyards. The space was meant for lingering — in an Adirondack chair on the waterfront lawn. As for the wine? You can taste the care winemaker Emmy Neighbors brings to her craft. Later, hit locals’ hang The Cove, back in Leland, for a New Orleans–inspired whitefish in a Creole sauce that was recommended to me by more than a few people.

Day Two

Leland River between Falling Waters and Fishtown

Start with a croissant and a cappuccino at 9 Bean Rows, a farm and bakery in Suttons Bay, and grab a house-made granola bar for the road. Dedicate the rest of the day to wine. There are no rideshare services, so prebook an excursion through an operator (try Movie Stars Wine Tours) for a glimpse inside the wine industry: The Leelanau Peninsula sits at the 45th parallel — that’s the same latitude as Bordeaux, France. Cool-climate wines (chardonnay, pinot noir) grow well thanks to the sandy, loamy soils and lake effect, which extends the growing season. We visited The Ridge at Verterra Winery, perched on a hilltop overlooking leafy vineyards and offering events like a meteor shower viewing on August 13th and 14th. Black Star Farms came next, then Aurora Cellars, which feels like it was plucked from a storybook. Wind down with a charcuterie board at Leland’s Riverside Inn. Neighbors pack the bar, but the best seats are on the patio, in one of the river-facing chairs. Afterward? A walk on Van’s Beach, steps from Falling Waters.

Day Three

Cherry Republic

On Sundays, Market 22 in Maple City serves breakfast classics to folks who line up before the restaurant opens. (Arrive early.) Then make your way to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore to hike the trails through the pines or travel the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. (The latter has 12 points of interest.) You must stop at Sleeping Bear Dune (#10), on a sandy plateau high above Lake Michigan — the turquoise waters gleam like the Caribbean. Follow that up with a wander through Glen Arbor, browsing cute womenswear at Cottonseed Apparel and indulging in everything cherry at Cherry Republic. Want to stretch your legs? Rent an e-bike from Suttons Bay Bikes and ride the 17-mile Leelanau Trail. Gilchrist Farm Winery awaits when you return to town. Its cheery blue farmhouse facade gives way to a modern dining area, where estate-grown wines are served alongside an ­ever-changing menu. It feels special, perfect — the only way to end a trip to Michigan’s hidden gem.

Sleeping Bear Dune

Drink Me!

You’ll uncork a lot of wine on your Leelanau trip. Here are the bottles not to miss.

A vineyard on the Leelanau Peninsula

Boathouse Vineyards
2022 Pinot Noir This silky pinot comes alive with flavor — lush red fruit, baking spices. It reminds me of the pinots you’d taste in central California.

Gilchrist Farm Winery
2023 Woven Made of merlot and pinot noir grapes, it’s medium-bodied with light tannins — great for both oenophiles and folks who are still getting their feet wet.

Verterra Winery
2023 Pinot Blanc People go bonkers for this dry white, with its notes of citrus and green apple, and crisp minerality. I want this on a hot summer day, with oysters.

Aurora Cellars
2022 Blaufränkisch This is a bigger wine, though it’s not overpowering. I get pretty jazzed when I can sample blaufränkisch (it’s less common on tasting menus), and this one did not disappoint.

Big Little Wines
2025 Treehouse A 100 percent white pinot noir is rare. (The skins of the grapes are removed before fermentation.) It’s robust, and feels like it could take the place of a chardonnay on your table.

Published as “Northern Exposure” in the August 2026 issue of Philadelphia magazine.