Fishtown’s Pickled Heron Needs Some Fine-Tuning
Missing acid and salt leave Adam Erace wanting at Fishtown’s Pickled Heron.
Cries for acid echoed throughout the meal. Most dishes needed some, except for the lovely lentil/sunchoke ravioli floating like an exotic lily pad in a tangy, subtly fruity Meyer lemon broth. Most, including that pasta dish, also needed salt. Improvement in both departments would have sharpened up all the slow-cooked richness in an otherwise excellent beef Bourguignon. D’Ambrosio and Braley do this classic with red-wine-marinated beef cheeks and roasted fingerlings, the kind of smart update that could be Pickled Heron’s calling card.