Tashan Is Excellent
Sylva Senat and Sanjay Shende have combined to turn Munish Narula’s Tashan into a kitchen that successfully charts a course between India and France.
You can call it fusion if you want. Just don’t call it dumb. This globally inflected Indian food is a potential minefield, but Senat dances through it without dropping much more than a teaspoon’s worth of his 51-spice arsenal.
The tandoor work here ranges in effect from sublime surprises (large prawns, nutty with fenugreek and toasted yellow pea flour, kept moist in the clay oven by cream cheese) to near miracles—like those lamb chops, whose rib bones had turned to brittle shards of carbon. How had the meat stayed so succulent? It’s a question I wouldn’t mind pondering at Tashan’s bar five nights a week.
Three Stars – Excellent
Spice Route [Philadelphia magazine]