Hit-or-Miss at White Dog in Wayne
Even in the best of dishes Craig LaBan finds misses at White Dog Cafe Wayne.
An absolutely superb 13-ounce slice of NY strip from Painted Hills Farm in Oregon (not local, but “natural”) has a minerally tenderness that is worth the $39 fee – by far the most expensive entrÃ©e of a menu whose prices hover in the mid-$20s. Green Meadow’s local beef, meanwhile, is hand-minced into a perky tartare so silky from the texture of fine raw beef, it was a mistake to panfry the quail egg on top, instead of letting the raw yolk lend a finishing gloss.
One Bell – Hit or Miss