Good Sushi Without Much Risk
Rare is the review where the opening paragraph describes sucking on shrimp heads but the rest of the review laments the restaurant playing it safe. But that’s what happens in Adam Erace’s review of Fat Salmon, the sushi spot on Washington Square West.
Halfway through the second head, I almost forgot about the amaebi themselves, chilling off to the side on a white platter laden with various nigiri, sashimi and a radioactive-looking roll called the Rolling Fire. The shrimp’s bodies were opened like books, butterflied into pairs of glassine pink petals that glistened under the restaurant’s globe-shaped pendant lights. Cool, subtly sweet and mild in an agreeable way, the meat seemed almost puritanical by comparison.