Good & Good Looking at Kraftwork
Adam Erace files his first report since moving from Philadelphia Weekly to City Paper. He puts Kraftwork to the test and comes away especially pleased with the decor plus the beer, cocktails and vegetarian options.
But before you starting thinking Thomas’ food is all pious veggies, may I present the rabbit terrine, a coral-colored slab involving layers of smoky bacon, funky chicken livers and lots of lean, mean bunny meat. The rabbit is available solo if you ask, or part of a respectable charcuterie plate if you don’t; the rabbit’s cured castmates are all outsourced, but Thomas promises house-made once the humidity tapers off.
If his salumi skills match his terrine abilities, Fishtown can look forward to a good fall. The rabbit bloomed with a savory woodland intensity I loved, even if I didn’t love its accoutrements: pickled peppers, grainy mustard, cornichons and shards of herbed flatbread that stabbed at my gums. A sweet fruit complement would better balance; a boring old baguette would do.