PW At The Brauhaus
Adam Erace visits Brauhaus Schmitz and finds plenty to love and a even a bit to criticize at Philadelphia’s only Teutonic brew house.
Blandness is another German cuisine stereotype Brauhaus Schmitz enforced on occasion. The pork shank, schnitzel and dense potato dumpling all so severely lacked salt, I found it hard to reconcile them with Nolenâ€™s other, wonderfully flavored items like the extraordinary bratwurst and sweet-and-sour cabbage that got its dynamic twang (and vivid magenta hue) from red wine vinegar and red currant preserves. A slice of brat, cabbage draped about it like garish pink garland, a smack of the hot German mustard from the quaint ceramic pots on each table â€¦ I donâ€™t know a more perfect bite. Nolen knows his way around these classics, having cooked at Readingâ€™s utmost private German clubs.