Ambition In A Deli


teris_cheese

Teri’s in the Italian Market looks like a deli but at night, it’s playing the part of restaurant. Adam Erace tries not to judge the spot on its looks.

 

After six months spinning bacon-egg-and-cheese bagels and Italian hoagies, the siblings-in-law added dinner service in January under Executive Chef Davis Denick. A Culinary Insitute of America grad and Coquette vet, his succinct, surprising new American menu—Shad roe! Persimmon! Chestnuts!—really deserves a prettier stage.

Every Wednesday through Sunday at 5 p.m., Denick takes over, stocking that Dietz & Watson caboose not with Oscar Meyer and sharp provolone but with legs of duck confit and peeled pears for poaching aligned in orderly rows. The dishes I ate were uncomplicated, but never to a fault, and the prices—$7 to $10 appetizers, $15-$20 entrees, plus a three-course $30 prix fixe open to the whole menu and a $5 wine refund with a state store receipt—were on the money, so to speak.

 

Delicatension [Philadelphia Weekly]