Strong Start, Finish At La Minette
Trey Popp finds that two out of three ain’t bad when it comes to dinner at Bistrot La Minette.
In restaurants as in theater, the first and third acts frequently bring more excitement than the second. At La Minette, the gulf was particularly wide. My salmon tartare starter was absolutely inspired. A disc of rose-petal-hued fish studded with an earthy mosaic of lentils got a third dimension from the blood-orange vinaigrette pooled at its edges â€” and a fourth from tiny diced cornichons that danced a briny jig on my tongue. That Alsatian flammenkÃ¼che featured caramelized onions, recalling its Mediterranean cousin, pissaladiÃ¨re, but a touch of crÃ¨me fraÃ®che solidified its northern European provenance.