Miran – Korean With Center City Convenience

Craig LaBan finds Miran, at 2034 Chestnut, brings good Korean food into Center City.

Miran tunes its menu, however, to the perfect heat volume for its crowd, a steadily bustling mix of hip young Asian students from nearby Penn and Drexel and non-Asians who have sought out this nook because they want an authentic taste.

And Miran’s chef, Yong San Huh, delivers a very solid repertoire of well-cooked standards. The huge savory pancakes, for example, are spot-on and a fabulous way to begin. Served on a hot iron platter, these moist rice-flour and egg pancakes are almost like Korean pizzas, crisped around the edges and laced with tender seafood, like shrimp and calamari, or turned to sunset orange with kimchi spice and crunchy long scallions.

I also loved the big steamer basket with mixed dumplings. The two pork dumplings – one turned pink with chiles, the other greened with sauteed chives – were my favorites. The veggie dumplings were tasty, although too mushy inside.

Two Bells – Very Good

Miran [Philadelphia Inquirer]