Craig LaBan visits the tiny Zento, a sushi byob in Old City who’s owner has learned well from Morimoto.
Zento more than compensates in sushi substance for what it lacks in designer flash. Of course, I probably would have walked past Zento, too, had I not already experienced Gunawan Wibisono’s ability to elevate the mundane to something worthy. If Wibisono can distinguish a bare-bones sushi express counter from the typically cheap-o competition with quality fish and catchy rolls, as he has done with Kami near City Hall, what can he do in a real restaurant?
Zento [Philadelphia Inquirer]