Honeymoons: Have One Epic Escape in the Scottish Highlands

The Fife Arms / Photograph by SIM Photography

I’d never heard the words “the City of Brotherly Love” spoken in a Scottish brogue till I went through customs at Edinburgh Airport. I’d just disembarked from my nonstop flight from PHL — they now run nearly year-round via American Airlines — and was delighted to hear Philly’s nickname within minutes of stepping off the plane, in a city so vastly different, on the other side of the Atlantic.

I was on my way to The Fife Arms (rooms from $475), a five-star boutique hotel in the Highlands. If you have time, spend a few days in Edinburgh (see Philly travel adviser Jessica Parker’s tips below) before heading to the hotel. It’s a two-and-a-half-hour drive along what I was told is the roller coaster of Scotland. If you’re prone to carsickness come prepared, so you can take in the scenery — pastures dotted with sheep, craggy valleys, dreamy hamlets. The dreamiest of these hamlets is Braemar, which The Fife Arms calls home.

An 800-person town may seem like an inauspicious place to open a hotel, but Braemar is wildly popular. For one day each September (this year, on the 5th), its population swells to 14,000 as the nearly 200-year-old Braemar Gathering (aka the Highland Games) takes over its park for feats of strength — plus the hill race, a three-mile sprint up a 1,200-foot mountain. Members of the royal family often attend.

The Fife Arms has had its own brushes with royalty. The former Victorian coaching inn is close to Balmoral Castle, the royal family’s Scottish retreat that Queen Victoria and Prince Albert purchased in 1852. The queen often stopped at the inn on her way to the estate.

Today, The Fife Arms is a 47-room hotel, debuted in 2018 by independent hospitality firm Artfarm. It’s straight out of a story­book, from its perch above the River Clunie to the fire crackling in the hearth to the hotel’s two dogs, IO and Mac, who greet everyone with tails wagging. It’s so charming I could barely take it.

Then there’s the art. It’s everywhere — 16,000 pieces. Some works are singular on their own (a Picasso), and others pay tribute to Scotland. To wit: The walls are lined with tartan or tweed by Scottish textile designer Araminta Campbell, who works with hotel guests (on request) to create their own textiles — a sweet nod to your new life together.

The Secret room at The Fife Arms / Photograph by Dave Watts

Each room is also one of a kind: The new Secret room is inspired by Coco Chanel’s love for the Highlands and has a freestanding copper bath that luxuriates in an arched niche. (This room is already popular with brides-to-be as a getting-ready suite.) In a quirky contrast, the hotel’s Art Deco bar, Elsa’s, is inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli — Chanel’s nemesis and a Braemar visitor. Try the Shocking Pink, named for Schiaparelli’s signature color.

There’s Bertie’s, the swanky whisky bar (of course), a wine cellar, and two restaurants. The Clunie serves breakfast, tea, and formal dinner (the venison was a hit with my table) and boasts custom Murano chandeliers. And the Flying Stag pub was my favorite for its convivial vibe (filled with locals and visitors), comfort-food menu (if it’s available, order the pea and wild garlic soup), and whimsy. (See the eponymous mythical creature suspended over the bar.)

It’s enough to ensure that you never leave the hotel — you are on your honeymoon, after all — but you should explore. Take a 4×4 Highlands tour through the Cairngorms, the largest national park in the U.K., and try to spot the grouse — and Highland cows! — flitting about the heather-filled moors, which turn a beautiful purple hue in the summer. Or go wild swimming with guide Annie Armstrong. You’ll walk from the mobile sauna (Armstrong built it in a former horse trailer) down to the river for a cold plunge and back. It’s a bonding experience (much easier to step into the frigid water when you’re with your beloved) and a wellness reset. Or you can simply arrange a massage at The Fife Arms’ spa.

Sightseeing more your speed? Wander the sprawling grounds of Balmoral Castle, with its well-appointed gardens. The interiors are open to the public on a limited basis, so you can get a glimpse of what it’s like on a royal holiday. And stroll through towns like Ballater, home to Artfarm’s Fish Shop restaurant (order the crab crumpets), and your home base, Braemar. Have a golden ale at Braemar Brewing Co., browse Braemar Gallery’s gifts and art — all sourced from the U.K. — and treat yourself to truffles from Braemar Chocolate Shop. There’s the butcher where the hotel gets its haggis, an antique shop, and a collective filled with the work of local makers, who take turns running the place.

It all feels so special — like an homage to the people and places of Braemar. And, if you think about it, that’s not so different from Philly, and that’s something to treasure upon returning home.

Pond-Hopping

A picnic and Highlands tour / Photograph by Sarah Weal

Want to plan the perfect U.K. honeymoon? Philly travel adviser Jessica Parker of Trip Whisperer has some tips.

Plan for 10 days or two weeks.
Many people are waiting to take a honey­moon, going later after the wedding, which likely gives them more in their budget. That’s important in major cities and at boutique hotels like The Fife Arms.

Book a hotel near where you plan to do most of your activities.
That’s a priority in cities like London. It’s so expansive that you’ll want to be in a place where you can walk around and not spend a ton of time on the Tube or taxiing.

Don’t miss the beach towns.
If you’re in London, the sea is surprisingly close. Head southwest toward Southampton to start (or, if you’re a Downton Abbey fan, west to take in the filming location, Highclere Castle, on your way). Then branch to the east and Portsmouth for a boatload of naval history or west to Bournemouth and the Jurassic Coast.

Consider Glasgow.
People often skip over this port city. But it’s cool, with lots of arts and music and a good food scene.

Book a food tour in the city.
I recommend doing one on the first day. Then you can get to know the neighborhood, eat some great bites, and get recommendations from the tour guide. Eating Europe, with tours in Edinburgh, is run by Kenny Dunn from Ambler.

Remember your Electronic Travel Authorization.
It’s a little annoying, because you have to download the app, but it’s required to enter the U.K. and lasts for two years. They approve it very fast, but don’t wait till the last minute to apply.

48 Hours in Edinburgh

The Salisbury Crags with Edinburgh in the distance / Photograph via Getty Images

What to see on a quick visit before — or after — your Fife Arms retreat, according to Parker

Check out Edinburgh Castle, then take the steps down to Grassmarket. It’s lively, local, and a nice contrast to the Royal Mile, a bustling sightseeing and tourist district. Visiting the local pub scene is a highlight, as is trying a proper haggis dish. (For us Philly folk, it’s akin to scrapple.) The Witchery is a must-dine restaurant: It’s candlelit, dramatic, and right by the castle. It’s pure atmosphere and is always memorable. And be sure to make time to wander Old Town and Stockbridge. Honestly, the best part is just getting lost in the boutiques, the winding streets, the flower boxes everywhere. It feels like walking through a living museum. Need somewhere to stay? Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel (from $300) is the best value for style. It has a Georgian townhouse feel, lots of character, and a slightly more approachable price point without sacrificing design, especially if you’re going big on The Fife Arms.

Published as “First Look: Have One Epic Escape in Scotland” in the summer/fall 2026 issue of Philadelphia Wedding.

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