Stephen Starr’s catering arm has recently taken over the Art Museum’s stodgy dining operations and injected them with some modernity. And while it’s not quite as modern as, say, a Damien Hirst shark immersed in formaldehyde, the white-tablecloth Granite Hill now offers a menu with international flair: a respectably crisp chicken schnitzel; pretty ladies-who-lunch salads; fried oysters nestled atop a fragrant curry rémoulade. There’s also a welcome dose of dadaist wit — like “Le Haute Dog,” which is no wiener, but rather a D’Angelo Bros. sausage, topped with gruyère, in a toasted brioche roll. Duchamp would be proud.
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