Stephen Starr’s catering arm has recently taken over the Art Museum’s stodgy dining operations and injected them with some modernity. And while it’s not quite as modern as, say, a Damien Hirst shark immersed in formaldehyde, the white-tablecloth Granite Hill now offers a menu with international flair: a respectably crisp chicken schnitzel; pretty ladies-who-lunch salads; fried oysters nestled atop a fragrant curry rémoulade. There’s also a welcome dose of dadaist wit — like “Le Haute Dog,” which is no wiener, but rather a D’Angelo Bros. sausage, topped with gruyère, in a toasted brioche roll. Duchamp would be proud.
Where We’re Eating: Granite Hill
Stephen Starr takes over the Art Museum.
26th Street and the Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-684-7990, philamuseum.org/dining.
Originally published in Philadelphia Magazine, December 2010