A.C. Dining: Angeloni’s II

There's something wonderfully secret-feeling about this family-owned restaurant, starting with its are-you-sure-this-is-it? corner location in a mostly residential neighborhood. Walk in to face a bar full of walleyed regulars and wonder, again, if you're in the right place. But go a few steps farther, and you'll enter the cheery, wood-paneled dining room, where the maps of Puglia on the wall reveal that the food here is classic red sauce-clams casino, nine kinds of veal, braciole and homemade ravioli. While it's all tasty, the real star is the wine list-a voluminous, Wine Spectator-approved affair of hundreds of bottles ranging from the off-year and affordable to the seriously splurge-y. Those in the know ask for Alan Angeloni's private list, a battered binder of cellared bottles that aren't as pricey as you might think.

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