Two Stars Archives - Philadelphia Magazine

Two Stars

Foobooz

Aiming For The Middle: Cinder Reviewed

I go to Cinder on a gray afternoon, looking for comfort and distraction, and find it at the bar—two giant TVs showing football on one […]

Foobooz

The Authenticity Trap: Harp & Crown Reviewed

On a cold night in December, we threaded our way through the crowds on Sansom Street and found the unobtrusive door. We pushed through the […]

Foobooz

The Three-Umbrella Problem: Bop Reviewed

I ate the mandoo at Bop and they were fine. Tasted like a thousand other dumplings at a hundred other American-Asian restaurants in a dozen […]

Foobooz

Breakfast of Champions: The Dutch Reviewed

  Breakfast is the last great, untouched frontier. Of all the meals available to us (lunch, dinner, supper, elevenses, fourthmeal, midnight snacks, etc.), breakfast is […]

Foobooz

The Time Machine: Jansen Reviewed

My wife, Laura, hated Jansen as soon as she walked through the door. To be fair, she actually hated it before she walked through the […]

Foobooz

The Mathematics of Sandwiches: Stove & Tap Reviewed

On a Sunday night, Stove & Tap is busy. Not full, but I’m not really sure there would ever be enough people dining out in […]

Foobooz

The Revisit: Opa

When Opa first opened, it was loud, brash, crowded and dull. The kitchen seemed incapable of dependably executing the most basic dishes. The cooks were […]

Foobooz

Learning Curve: Sate Kampar Reviewed

This is what you do. You go to Sate Kampar on a first date. You save it for someone special—for when Tinder, the phone psychic, […]

Foobooz

Seeds and Stems: Hungry Pigeon Reviewed

The first time I went to Scott Schroeder’s new restaurant, Hungry Pigeon, I showed up for breakfast and liked it so much, I stayed for […]

Foobooz

An American In Paris: La Peg Revisited

When the server told me the special for the night was a plate of snails packed with herb butter, I didn’t get them, because snails […]

Foobooz

The Stupid Joy of Simple Things: Clarkville Reviewed

The thing that matters most about Clarkville is where it lives. It’s a pizza restaurant with good beer, a single solid pasta, and a short, […]

Foobooz

Smooth Jazz and Skate Wing: 26 North Reviewed

The 1990s were a bad time for the American restaurant scene. We were, as an emerging culinary entity, in our first youth—like awful (if precocious) […]

Foobooz

The Heart and the Head: Buckminster’s Reviewed

It was the bologna that threw me. I mean, really, it was everything. But it was the bologna most of all, because I loved the […]

Foobooz

Let Me Go Wild: Revolution Taco Reviewed

The first time I walked into Revolution Taco, they were playing “Blister in the Sun,” and all the people in the neighborhood were still getting […]

Foobooz

Red Meat Economics: LP Steak Reviewed

The steakhouse is the dullest kind of restaurant. There’s no surprise in a steakhouse. No shock, no awe. The best things you can hope to […]