Taste: Dining Out: Where We’re Eating: August 2010: Amuse

Amuse, Center City West

Convenient to the Convention Center, this bistro in the new Le Meridien hotel reflects the hotel’s French heritage—order the hanger steak rare and it arrives feverishly red, properly cool in the center, and practically still -moo-ing—but execution doesn’t always match its ambitions. Flabby fries disappointed; a goat cheese and onion tart was tasty, but the accompanying microgreens were wilted and browning. A deconstructed Niçoise salad made a dainty picture on the plate, but left us wishing for something with a bit more heft (and flavor) for its $17 price tag. Insider tip: The sourdough baguettes are worth the carbs. Le Meridien Hotel, 1421 Arch Street, 215-422-8222, starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien.