Taste: Eat This Now: BLT

The simple BLT might just be the sandwich of July 2008. July is, after all, the height of New Jersey tomato season, and 2008 is officially the year of the pig, at least for foodies who’ve embraced such porky inventions as the bacon ice cream scooped recently at Queen Village’s Cochon. Versions of the BLT are as varied as the city’s restaurants — Union Gourmet Market in Wash West pairs the basics with roasted salmon; the South Philadelphia Tap Room makes a BLT salad with bear bacon; Broad Street’s 10 Arts goes whole hog with pork belly — but the best BLT is homemade, with toasted white bread, extra-crisp bacon, supple lettuce leaves, a thick slice of farm-stand beefsteak tomato, and mayo, if you must.