Taste: Where We’re Eating
Harry’s Savoy Grill
After almost 20 years — and, the restaurant estimates, two million guests — Harry’s Savoy Grill has a new look, from the glass entryway to the refinished bar. But prime rib still takes center stage at Wilmington’s office-outing and family-reunion spot: The carving station stands at the apex of the refinished main dining room, and on the plate, the meaty, well-marbled slab — served up in 12-ounce portions at lunch, and up to 18 ounces at dinner — is the focal point, which you might pair with Dijon to cut the richness. Waiters will wisely steer the less ravenous to the only slightly more dainty crabcakes. 2020 Naamans Road, Wilmington, 302-475-3000; harrys-savoy.com.
The word on the street when this nicer-looking-than-average Mexican BYOB opened last fall was: Go elsewhere. But recent meals at Molcajete Mixto, just a block from the Italian Market, prove the kitchen has figured it out. Molcajete is one of the best of our many new Mexican spots. Everything from the whole-fish specials to the ceviche du jour to the mole poblano enchiladas to the clams baked with chorizo, cilantro and chipotle butter is exceptional — as is the cook’s fondness for garlic. The only drawback: The restaurant tends to be deserted. BYO tequila to get the party going. 746 Christian Street, 215-413-0171; molcajetemixto.com.
The once-infamous, now ubiquitous Palm has updated its Center City steaks-plus menu with re-released classics like the Gigi salads — the West Coast has avocado and egg, the East Coast has string beans, bacon and shrimp — and more-original items, like an arugula, endive and strawberry salad. But the new flounder entrée, which was both bland and overcooked, is an argument for sticking with what this steakhouse has always done best: snappy shrimp cocktail, big meaty steaks, sinful creamed spinach, and moan-with-every-bite peanut butter pie. 200 South Broad Street, 215-546-7256; thepalm.com.
Malvern’s Yamashiro has been transformed into Cosimo, a wine bar and restaurant that has attracted early devotées and a divorcée dating scene, set to an ’XPN-meets-classic-rock soundtrack. Most come for the wine: 40 options by the glass, available in 1.5-ounce, three-ounce or five-ounce pours. The staff knows just enough about wine to know when to summon wine director Jason Whiteside, who confidently recommends pairings for the menu’s Continental fare. (Marinara-like Tuscan bread soup, no; supremely crisp duck confit, yes, please.) 209 Lancaster Avenue, Malvern, 610-647-1233; cosimorestaurant.com.