Two Bells for Village Belle
Craig LaBan finds plenty to like at Village Belle, the traditional Italian restaurant with New American tendencies.
The most soulful dish here, though, was yet another clever riff on a family recipe, this one for crespelle. In a presentation twist to the Campanaro manicotti, cheese-stuffed crepes get folded into triangular little parcels (instead of being rolled into tubes), then layered onto the plate like the scales of a fish gliding over a crimson pool of marinara. Brushed with butter and Parmesan then broiled to a light crisp, the delicate crepes give way to cushions of herb-flecked ricotta that pop with the surprise of pine nuts.
It’s the kind of dish that reminds how satisfying simple food can be when it’s cooked with a little imagination and a genuine sense of feeling.
Two Bells – Very Good