Over the Top in the Neighborhood

Trey Popp reviews Adsum and finds Matt Levin’s bong friendly food a bit heavy when taken as a whole.

I would have enjoyed my meals here far better if Levin offered more safe harbors from the barrage of butter and animal fats. The two in which I did find cover were marvels of delicious simplicity. A roasted black sea bass, its sweet flesh jacketed in skin as crispy as the accompanying confetti of puffed wild rice, was hands-down the best whole fish I’ve eaten in Philadelphia. And Adsum’s green-vegetable deficit was ameliorated by an ambrosial bowl of heirloom beefsteaks raised in a 120-plant Kennett Square garden by some sort of tomato whisperer.

2 ½ stars

Adsum [Philadelphia Magazine]
Adsum [Official Site]