Southern Fare at Cooperage
Elisa Ludwig finds that execution problems hamper the Southern inspired menu at Cooperage.
Some missteps were more forgivable than others. While the thick, granola-crusted “Hippie Chop” was too overcooked to be luscious, its side of leek bread pudding was a phenomenally rich casserole of Parmesan, cream, brioche croutons and onion-y goodness. The shrimp po’ boy boasted big juicy shrimp, a pliant roll, vibrant remoulade and a fringe of crunchy cabbage, but the blackened spice was oversalted, as were the homemade chips in the basket. And though the Brekkie Burger was not exactly medium-rare, its hefty Angus beef patty had a tasty coarse grind, and its accoutrements â€” pickled beets, applewood bacon, herbed aioli and fried egg on an English muffin â€”made it a memorable and original rendition.