Two Bells For Brauhaus Schmitz
Craig LaBan’s praise for Brauhaus Schmitz manages to rise above the din that the Inquirer’s restaurant critic invariably complains about.
But where it counts most – in genuine flavor – [Chef Jeremy] Nolen delivers splendidly. The slow-braised sauerbraten (a rump roast tenderized by a weeklong marinade in red wine and vinegar infused with star anise, juniper, and clove) is tucked beneath a blanket of gravy thickened with gingersnaps. The earthiness of real wild mushrooms lends a dusky intensity to the sauce for the jÃ¤gerschnitzel pork cutlet, while spicy paprika, vinegar, peppers, and wine lend the zigeunerschnitzel a “gypsy style” snap.
Two Bells – Very Good