In With The New At Oyster House
Craig LaBan checks out the new interpretation of the Oyster House on Sansom Street and though he finds some classics off a bit there is more than enough to recommend.
There are more than enough touchstones done right here, however, to warm a fish-house fanatic’s heart. The grilled blue fish was the freshest I’ve had, the dusky meat updated with a summer salad of limas and heirloom tomatoes in vinaigrette. The clam chowder and lobster bisque were also unthickened, but their Lancaster-cream broths were vividly rich. The shrimp and lobster cocktails were pure raw-bar decadence, far superior to the too-lightly-grilled lobster entree. Steamed soft-shell belly clams were was the definition of New England clam-ocity.
The gumbo and fisherman’s stew, meanwhile, were satisfying seafood meals in a bowl. A Pernod-scented broth for the stew was the next best thing to good bouillabaisse. And then, of course, there is that quintessential Philadelphian odd couple: fried oysters with chicken salad.
Two Bells – Very Good