LaBan At Union Trust
Craig LaBan finally makes it to Union Trust to give the oppulent steakhouse the once over. What he finds is a restaurant that has come back to Earth from its heady opening in February but one that does at least deliver where it matters most.
When it comes to the main event – the steaks – Union Trust more than holds its own. The wet-aged prime chops were simply spectacular, from a “rib eye filet mignon” cut two inches thick from the eye of a rib steak that tasted like filet injected with butter to a Kansas City strip wrapped in an L-shaped bone that sang brightly with well-peppered complexity. A thick mallet of 14-ounce, grass-fed veal chop was among the most flavorful veal chops I’ve had. Even the steak sandwich at lunch, a half-inch pad of rib eye layered with spicy fried onion laces and blue cheese, was memorable.
Two Bells – Very Good