Alarming Report From Ladder 15
Trey Popp goes to Ladder 15 and gets beyond the bubblegum cocktails and into the food but finds its execution equally sophomoric.
The “chowda” flatbread was as dry as its namesake is creamy. Chewy chopped shellfish shared space with bacon and sliced potatoes, some of which could have used more cooking. The flour-coated crust was neither crispy nor chewy â€” more like a big cracker that had been left unwrapped on a humid day. Underdone crab and corn hush puppies were mealy in the middle, and bland all the way through. Root beer-glazed pork ribs were tender, if one-dimensionally sweet, but “glaze” really wasn’t the right word for those dull gray crescents, which made me think of cafeteria food. A side of roasted beets hadn’t been roasted enough.