Two Bells For MÃ©mÃ©
Craig LaBan hands out one of his gaudier two-bell reviews to David Katz’s MÃ©mÃ© and even promises to revisit by the end of the year.
The name MÃ©mÃ©, a term of endearment for grandma in Katz’s Moroccan-Jewish family, evokes a homeyness that informs the rustic simplicity of the small menu. But there’s also an edginess, too, from the manically illustrated sign designed by gonzo artist Ralph Steadman, to the tattoos and plaid baggy shorts peeking out beneath Katz’s white chef coat, to the jaunty iPod sound track (reggae, R.E.M., and the Beastie Boys’ “Shake Your Rump”) that bops through the room.
The constantly changing, seasonal fare embodies both spirits, with seemingly straightforward bistro dishes that get a rise from quality ingredients, a focused modern eye, and sharp techniques that coax maximum flavor from every dish.
Two Bells – Very Good