Gastro Not Gimmicks
Craig LaBan tastes lots of potential in Jonathan McDonald’s British inspired menu at Pub & Kitchen.
And I’ve tasted more than a few plates of evidence that McDonald is the real deal, from his mastery of the beer batter to the house-cured bacon that gives his burger luster, to what might be the best gnocchi in town, those airy Parisian choux dumplings tossed with wilted radicchio and herbed mascarpone. His bar snacks show a knack for giving a creative spin to good ingredients, whether it’s a silky duck liver pÃ¢tÃ©, fresh chips dusted with vinegar powder, or blue cheese with caramelized Guinness.
Two Bells – Very Good