Las Tarascas en Zocalo
Amid all of our shiny new Mexican restaurants Trey Popp visits something old, Las Tarascas en Zocalo on Lancaster Avenue in West Philadelphia.
The food is also a refreshing departure from what has long passed for “authentic” in these parts. Enchiladas come drenched in a dark mole that’s appealingly bittersweet. The pork butt in my cochinita pibil wasn’t quite shredded, but a long simmer in vinegar and orange had rendered it tender and flavorful. Pollo santuario featured a pounded chicken breast topped with chorizo whose smokiness contrasted nicely with the tang of a fresh tomatillo sauce.