PW At the Memphis Taproom
Adam Erace wants to like the Memphis Taproom but he just can’t get excited about the food, except for maybe the king rarebit.
[Chef Jesse] Kimball tops the browned toast with two sunny-side-up pastured eggs (gracias, Green Meadow Farms) dusted with Turkish aleppo pepper and Old Peculiar ale gravy sharpened with cheddar.
Pierced, the yolks spill into the fondue, mingling in a brown-and-yellow slurry that doesnâ€™t look pretty but tastes rich and satisfying. The king rarebit is the kind of sustenance thatâ€™ll set you right after a long night in the company of Sly Foxes and the PBC, something the Memphis menu will need once the Port Fishington buzz wears off.