PW Reviews Swallow, Summer Guide Silliness

Adam Erace rounds up summer openings and wonders about Swallow, where the food is great, but the chef is a little too involved:

Is it Swallow’s emptiness that causes Jason to approach the table with frequent mood-gauging queries—Is the music too loud? Are the prawns okay?—and fits of gratitude for ordering the duck confit, “which represents 12 hours of labor and preparation”?

The guy looks really uncomfortable, a ball of nervous energy wound up into a tight white perma-smile. He’d do well to let his staff handle the floor. The tatted-up crew don’t hover and seem genuine in both their desire for you to enjoy yourself and their affection for the food.

As part of the summer guide, Jeff Barg ruins a Jim’s steak by wrapping it in a nasty slice of Lorenzo’s pizza.

PW [Official Site]