PW Reviews Swallow, Summer Guide Silliness
Adam Erace rounds up summer openings and wonders about Swallow, where the food is great, but the chef is a little too involved:
Is it Swallowâ€™s emptiness that causes Jason to approach the table with frequent mood-gauging queriesâ€”Is the music too loud? Are the prawns okay?â€”and fits of gratitude for ordering the duck confit, â€œwhich represents 12 hours of labor and preparationâ€?
The guy looks really uncomfortable, a ball of nervous energy wound up into a tight white perma-smile. Heâ€™d do well to let his staff handle the floor. The tatted-up crew donâ€™t hover and seem genuine in both their desire for you to enjoy yourself and their affection for the food.
As part of the summer guide, Jeff Barg ruins a Jim’s steak by wrapping it in a nasty slice of Lorenzo’s pizza.
PW [Official Site]