City Paper’s Trey Popp checks out Yakitori Boy, the karaoke lounge and small plates restaurant that has opened in Chinatown.
Yakitori Boy attempts to cater to this vast clientele by way of “japas” â€” a play on Spanish tapas. Think shortened sushi rolls and small barbecue skewers threaded with everything from chicken to gingko nuts. Food options come by the score, illustrated by garish color photographs on a laminated menu that’s an exercise in visual overload.
Unfortunately, the eye candy wasn’t too sweet on the tongue. Any kitchen that tries to make this many things for this many people has got a challenge on its hands, and Yakitori Boy doesn’t seem up to it. With the exception of the supplemental chef’s daily menu (more on that later), just about every plate that came my way was disappointingly bland. Unsurprisingly, given its sheer volume, much of the food had a faintly industrial character.