First time we’ve seen “massive portions” in a review in a long while but that’s just what Old City Korean restaurant Meju delivers albeit at a too hectic pace.

The poor timing is unfortunate, because many of Meju’s offerings are so tasty you’ll want to linger over their singes of spice and thought-provoking twangs. The hae mul pa jun—savory pancakes with shrimp, calamari and scallions folded into the batter—makes you rethink what you know about breakfast. Stir-fried with onions and mushrooms, pork bulgogi benefits from a honeyed lacquer, while galbi (Korean-style short ribs) are tender and so flavorful I leave nothing but a pile of gnawed bones.

Philadelphia Seoul [Philadelphia Weekly]