Trey Popp of City Paper crosses into New Jersey to try Blackbird, a new BYOB in Collingswood.
At its best the food marries several of these elements seamlessly. My favorite dish was the first one I tried, a single diver scallop perched atop a mound of fregola sarda (very similar to Israeli couscous). The little dots of semolina, no bigger than ball bearings, had been perfectly toasted to amplify the caramelized sear marks on either side of the scallop. On top, a tiny, barely cooked quail egg; and underneath, a lobster sauce whose uncommon depth of flavor echoed the richness of the delicate yolk.