Ortlieb’s Jazzhaus, More Than Just Music
Ortlieb’s Jazzhaus recently turned 20, getting new owners, a makeover and new chef, Michael Suminski.
Suminski has kept the general Cajun-American gist of the menu intact, but his talents are obvious at every flip of the spatula. Creamy, cayenne-spiked Louisiana crab bisque floats with chunks of lump crabmeat, corn and a clever swirl of bourbon syrup. The teasing spice of blackened catfish fingers encased in peppery coating is both augmented and tempered by a creamy lime-chipotle aioli. Light-as-lattice calamari are golden rings of seafood perfection that defy gravity, and also reason.