RESTAURANT LISTINGS |
When Valerie Safran and Marcie Turney announced they were going to be closing their struggling Indian BYOB Bindi and turning the space into another spot for tapas, wine and Spanish-inflected small plates, my reaction was, “Why, because ‘Turney & Safran’s 13th Street Gastropub’ wouldn’t fit on the sign?” Seriously, the only thing this town needed less than another gastropub was another Spanish small-plates operation, and I kept right on thinking that until I got to Jamonera for the first time. Now, after a recent dinner, I believe one of those other tapas joints ought to close if Jamonera’s opening has put us over the hypothetical limit, because this version of the overdone restaurant trope is seriously good—bringing new life and vitality to the style with bandarillas, papa frita with wood-smoked garlic aioli, crispy fried pig tails, and beautiful folds of hand-cut Iberico ham.