Think there’s nothing special about peanut butter? Maybe you’ve never tried Cream-Nut, the intensely fragrant and roast-y tasting artisan peanut butter that’s now available at Capogiro. Beloved by chefs — Shola Olunloyo has lauded it on his Studiokitchen blog — Cream-Nut improves any recipe calling for the classic nut spread, but it definitely lends itself to spooning straight out of the jar or onto a warm piece of toast. It’s pricey at $6.25, more than twice the cost of a jar of Jif, but worth the extra cash for true peanut butter lovers.
Goodburger, the first Philly outpost of the New York City chain, opened its doors on Chestnut Street, just two blocks from Five Guys, on Saturday. And in this city, where many of the town’s favorite burgers are on the pricey side (I’m talking to you, Rouge), there’s probably business enough to support two burger joints using good ingredients to make burgers at reasonable prices.
The New York outposts of Goodburger consistently deliver on their promise. Those burgers are, well, good. I especially like that the company wisely grinds its own meat — it’s safer than buying it pre-ground, like many fast food chains. In this era of beef recalls, that lends a certain level of confidence to their product. But as much I as appreciate a good burger, I’m most looking forward to trying Goodburger’s other goodies, like old- fashioned milk shakes and beer-battered onion rings.
When the Headhouse Farmers’ Market set up under the shambles at 2nd and Lombard streets last summer, it was a major moment in Philadelphia food. Finally, we had something to compare to New York’s famous Union Square Greenmarket, a place where the food community — chefs, locavores, food writers, etc. — converged every Sunday morning to buy directly from our region’s growers.
Starting this weekend, the market is open for 2008. The earliest weeks of the season bring things like ramps and asparagus. It’s not the cornucopia of tomatoes and squash of July, but the market’s opening will mean the return of major sources of humanely raised meats, including Hendrick’s farms excellent bacon. Filling your shopping bags with local fare is a good feeling, but the fun of attending the market and taking part in this vibrant community is even better. Don’t miss your first chance of the year to support our local farmers and the Food Trust, the nonprofit that makes it happen.
In Center City, west of Broad is the place to be. South of Washington Avenue, though, that whole cultural compass changes dramatically. There, the blocks just West of Broad Street have a reputation for being run down and dangerous – which hasn’t stopped urban pioneers from scooping up real estate in Point Breeze and Newbold. For some, part of the lure has been the success of a handful restaurants and bars. Think of it as eating as civic duty.
The South Philadelphia Tap Room (which recently expanded, installed a new chef, and introduced a new menu) has been the site of the Newbold Neighborhood Association’s meetings since the group’s inception. Hardena, a hallowed hole-in-wall serving Indonesian fare, has been drawing foodies to the area for several years. And a more recent arrival, Café Con Chocolate, serves pseudo-Mexican grub like nachos and veggie tacos in a brightly lit, freshly painted coffee shop setting.
Recently, there has been panic in the news about the purity of our drinking water. The AP reports tests that show trace amounts of prescription drugs in much of the United State’s tap water. And it’s likely that bottled water, often drawn from the same sources as tap, has similar levels of chemicals.
While it’s no good to have issues raised about the safety of our drinking water, it’s important to remember that many places around the world have water so contaminated that it’s deadly. Those who are forced to drink the water in much of the developing world still die from waterborne diseases like cholera, typhoid fever and hepatitis A. In fact, as we sit around our water coolers or Pellegrinos worrying about what dangers may lurk for us, more than 4,000 children around the world die each day for lack of clean drinking water.
From March 16 through 22, a dozen local restaurants (including Daniel Stern’s Gayle and Rae) will be participating in UNICEF’s Tap Project, which invites diners to donate $1 when they choose plain ice water. Proceeds support UNICEF’s ongoing efforts to bring clean drinking water to impoverished countries around the world.
Le Bernadin executive pastry chef Michael Laiskonis is consulting on Ripert’s latest project — 10 Arts, scheduled to open in the Ritz-Carlton in May. So, he’s been playing around with the most classic of Philly pastries, the Tastykake.
On his lovely new blog, Laiskonis raises this important question: “What the hell is a Tastykake?” Then he goes to work with Vanilla Cream Kakes, Kandy Kakes, a blender, a Silpat, and an ice cream maker. The results: Pineapple Coconut Tastykakes (that is, a citrus biscuit, coconut sorbet, and vanilla-and star anise-infused pineapple juice with molded Tastykake cream, Tastykake tuile and Tastykake crouton, shown) and Malted Peanut Tastykakes (malted Tastykake ice cream with peanut butter powder).
No guarantees they’ll make the menu, but ambitious home chefs can follow Laiskonis’s detailed recipes.
Eric Livingston of Drexel Hill isn’t your average suburban dad and husband. He is one of the 30 competitive eaters primed to “eat his way to fame” at tomorrow’s Wing Bowl 16. (He ate one of everything on the McDonald’s Dollar Menu in five minutes and 30 seconds to qualify.) Livingston’s eating ego, Steakbellie, who dons a Scottish kilt during competitions, took time out of his surprisingly low-key, pre-Wing Bowl workout to dish about his favorite foods (it’s not wings!) and his path to professionally ranked speed-eater. — Bridget Salmons
So you are ranked 21st in the world; how did you get involved in competitive eating?
This is my third year as a pro. I tried out for the Wing Bowl 14 on a bet, and I was predicted by WIP to come in Dead Last (30th). I wound up placing 6th and only getting beat by mostly pros. I had such a good time that I signed up for the very next professional contest I could find. (And got my butt kicked!) Since then, it’s been a long, slow climb to breaking the top 50 rankings.
How many wings did you eat in your first Wing Bowl competition?
106! People asked me how I felt … FULL. But later that night I ate some leftover chicken parm out of the fridge.
How many do you plan on eating this year?
If everything goes well, I should be in the 150 range. I don’t say that lightly … that’s a lot of food!
How do your prepare for the Wing Bowl?
Many people are surprised at how little I eat on a regular basis, or the healthy choices I try to make when eating. Even competitive eaters have to be responsible for their own health and weight. For me it’s more important to get a familiarity with the food, and think about what techniques might be best. I also don’t eat for 24 hours before an event so that I show up hungry.
What is your favorite food?
I love pizza. It’s really a weak spot for me.
What is the nastiest thing you’ve ever had to eat for a competition?
I’ve been in 23 professional contests so far and have eaten everything from hot dogs and hamburgers to whole turkeys to shoo-fly pie. All of them are unique. I ate 61 jalapenos in a contest in Chicago this summer. You can imagine the flight home. Surprisingly, the absolute worst food was the time I ate 6.5 pounds of cranberry sauce.
It’s time to make those Restaurant Week reservations. But with this year’s price increase — from $30 for three courses to $35 for three courses (not including beverages, tax and gratuity, of course) — the discussion seems to center around where not to go the week of January 27th. Despite the 100-plus options, it is harder to find a real deal this year. And too often restaurants aren’t at their best during the “get‘ em in, get’ em out” week.
I could offer some advice for navigating Restaurant Week:
* Choose a restaurant that’s out of your price range — if you’d never step through the doors at Le Bar Lyonnais otherwise, you won’t mind fewer menu options — but remember that a pricier restaurant usually means a pricier wine list as well.
* Pick a restaurant that offers its full menu. (Ristorante Panorama is one of the few this time around.)
* Do the math and see if your favorite restaurant is will be a steal at $44.95 per person (That’s about what you’ll be paying, with tax and a 20-percent tip.)
Or I could tell you what I’ll be doing that week:
* Enjoying the best part of Restaurant Week: Easier-to-score reservations at city spots that aren’t participating.
Our January issue is on the newsstands — but it isn’t our annual restaurant issue. Instead, Andy and Tammy Reid are on our cover, telling their personal story. Inside the issue, of course, you’ll find plenty to sate your appetite for food news — several of the city’s chefs and food artisans made our People to Watch list, including Osteria’s Marc Vetri (pictured), Marathon Grill’s Cary Borish and Bluecoat gin mastermind Robert Cassell — until the February issue hits the streets on January 28th with our picks for the city’s top 50 restaurants.
After five years confined to her miniature Blue Bell restaurant, Alison Barshak is expanding. Barshak signed a lease yesterday on the second spot — no name yet — slated for a spring 2008 opening on Bethlehem Pike in Fort Washington, just four miles from her Alison at Blue Bell.
What you’ll be excited about: the 100-plus seats, a private dining room, a full bar and a credit card machine, plus Barshak’s signature seafood-centric globe-trotting menu. (Expect influences from Barshak’s recent travels in Scandinavia and Vietnam.)
What Barshak is excited about: Nationally known kitchen designer Mark Stech-Novak and a kitchen large enough for a chef’s table and — gasp — a walk-in refrigerator. “We’ll make ice cream,” she says. “We’ll have tasting menus. This is a chance for us to stretch. To do more with the food.”