Best of the Shore

Sun. Surf. Tiny paper parasols. What’s better than a visit to the Shore? One guided by our first-ever list of the honest-to-goodness all-around greatest places to grab a dog, rest your head, stroll the beach, sip a cocktail, or just soak up the rays. We’ve gone town by town, to tell you where to stay, what to eat, and how the Shore haunts of your youth have changed

Long Beach Township

The largest town on Long Beach Island is split into four scattered pieces. To the left from the Causeway are North Beach and Loveladies, with the ritziest addresses on the island and the best in contemporary architecture. Heading south off the Causeway takes you to Long Beach proper, and then, after Beach Haven, Holgate, one of the best secrets on the island, where the fish bite — and manses mingle with a handful of trailer parks and motels sheltering a clientele that is nothing if not colorful. One of the marina’s owners, Gary Farreny, is building his own submarine.

Best of Long Beach Township

Place for a romantic walk: Holgate. Drive as far south as you can on Long Beach Boulevard, park in the public lot, and walk on a beautiful, secluded beach that is part of a national wildlife refuge, while Atlantic City glimmers in the distance.

Off-shore picnic: Tucker’s Island.
You need a boat to get to this small island located two miles off the southern tip of Long Beach Island, only terra firma at low tide. The water swallowed its motels, lighthouse and school decades ago; land surfaced again in the early ’90s. At anchor during the day, you’ll find peaceful seclusion; at night, you’ll discover why locals call it “Party Island.”

Way to get your hands dirty: Long Beach Island Foundation of the Arts and Sciences. Located in tony Loveladies; summer course offerings routinely include basics in pottery, painting, basketweaving and more. Also a good place to catch artsy films or join a book discussion group (120 Long Beach Boulevard; 609-494-1241).

Dive bar: Nardi’s Tavern.
This Haven Beach hot spot looks one good nor’easter from curtains, but the place is always rockin’ with local bands and a 30-to-40-something clientele. If you overindulge and live locally, the bar’s pink bus will—conspicuously—drive you home (11801 Long Beach Boulevard; 609-492-9538).

Bed & Beach
Average 2004 home price: $889,347
AVERAGE 1999 HOME PRICE: $319,427
Recent listing:
A four-bedroom, 2.5-bath oceanfront with two decks and beautiful views, $2.4 million.
Cost to rent a three-bedroom ocean-side house: About $3,000 a week.
Where to stay: Spray Beach Inn. This oceanfront option stands out among Long Beach Township’s landscape of mostly motels and motor inns. It offers, if not luxury, easy access to the beach, and a pool when the surf is rough. An adjoining restaurant serves up gourmet cuisine with excellent seafood selections (24th Street and Ocean Avenue; 609-492-1501).
On the beach: Head north off the Causeway for the rare public access points nestled between Loveladies’ and North Beach’s mostly private drives. Don’t give up. You have to look for them. But you can’t lose anywhere among Long Beach Township’s long, sloping, spotless beaches.