LaBan On La Maison
Craig LaBan’s biggest objection to Ardmore’s A La Maison may be that it isn’t more than a solid B.
There’s really nothing so wrong with A la Maison. But it’s not especially exciting, either. And there is perhaps no praise more faint or more damning than this French expression for “not bad.” But it certainly speaks to the cooking at A la Maison. There’s little here a true Francophile hasn’t tasted elsewhere, where it probably was more inspired. But true bistros are more about satisfying local regulars than showing off for destination diners. And this food is consistently cooked well enough (a solid B) to hold a hungry crowd’s attention. Considering they’ve flocked to what was once an Indian eatery so quiet you could fling a dosa through the room without hitting a soul, Ardmore has responded warmly in kind.
Two Bells – Very Good