Pedigree At Kite & Key
Adam Erace finds promise at Kite & Key but despite chef Justin Hoke’s impressive resume the menu needs more finesse.
Aside from a mushy crab-cake slider that squished out the sides of its poppy seed bun, the rest of Hokeâ€™s efforts showed promise. Like the perfectly respectable burger, for example, and the eight-hour-braised barbecue pork butt sandwich gone Italian with roasted long hots and sharp provolone, both served (with the sorry crab cake) in Kite and Keyâ€™s slider trio. True, the mussels lacked fire, and (except for the chili sauce) the ingredientsâ€”shallots, garlic, vermouth, chicken stock, butter, parsleyâ€” evoked more Provence than Phuket, but still, the PEI pileup was plump and sand-free, and the broth was charged with all the flavor I missed in the crepes.