Two Bells For 10 Arts
Craig LaBan hands out two bells to 10 Arts but thinks there could be more.
But it all feels so restrained. And there are flashes of fresh inspiration – like the seviche special of fluke draped over sweet watermelon and tiny charred tomatoes with a frozen “snow” of shaved goat cheese granita, or the tender square of braised pork belly over summer bean succotash – that give an intriguing glimpse of Jennifer Carroll’s real creative talent. Indulging that further, freeing this kitchen to express a more ambitious personality, could allow 10 Arts to step up to the next level.
Two Bells – Very Good