Kirsten Henri takes refuge from the tax man at James. She finds escape is possible with a quality martini and “perfect pastas.”
I also really hope James grows its selection of homemade pastas. Chef/owner Jim Burke, formerly of Angelina, has a seductive way with the stuff. Iâ€™m thinking of the whisper-thin pappardelle coiled like fluttering ribbons over a rich duck ragu, flavored with a hint of orange and a tableside shaving of dark chocolate. The sprinkles of chocolate instantaneously melt into the duck, adding voluptuousness to the moist shreds of meat. Or delicate rings of tortellini, each loop filled with creamy ricotta that oozes out at the least amount of fork pressure, finished with a scattering of savory porcini and pancetta sliced into crisp, salty matchsticks. The pastas are offered in full and half portions, so having one as a midcourse or an appetizer isnâ€™t out of the question.