A paninoteca is a simple concept — in theory. Throw some Italian-ish sandwiches in a hot press, and wait for the crowds to roll in. So why do so few Philly places get it right? We’ll mull that over at Agiato, the closest thing we’ve found to paninoteca perfection. Breads and pastries are homemade (by Parc vet Jim McAleese), and those, along with stellar versions of simple spreads like peperonata, transform a plain old panino into a crave-worthy meal. A sophisticated ribollita, the hearty Italian bean-and-vegetable stew, proves that sandwiches aren’t the only stars here.