Critic’s Notebook: Chicken Soup for the Soul

Avgolemono may sound like a fancy and intimidating dish, but it’s really just a Greek version of chicken soup. Kanella’s version — a homey bowl of chicken stock enriched with egg yolk, spiked with a healthy dose of lemon and strewn with rice and bits of tender chicken — is the best I’ve ever had. At lunch you can score a huge, soul-satisfying bowl for only $7, plus the soup comes with a hunk of house-baked multi-grain bread. Keep it in mind for those winter afternoons when only a hot lunch will do.