Amis Review: Molto Marc

Can Vetri stay on top as his kitchens multiply?

Many of Amis’ small plates are straightforward renditions of classic dishes: turkey cutlet Milanese with peppery arugula, curls of parmesan and a lemon wedge; briny marinated sardines with pickled vegetables; pork sausage over sweet red peppers. The familiar flavors are satisfying and clean, if a little expensive for what they are. A smallish bowl of clams and strozzaprete (think short, twisty spaghetti) was $14 (it’s now $18) — and sandy on my visit. A thin piece of rib eye ($26) was slightly overcooked. One of the pastas I sampled (tonnarelli with cheese and pepper) was so undercooked that I could see a raw-flour center at the heart of each strand. Even small missteps in execution are conspicuous when your reputation — and prices — suggests perfection is the rule.

On my last visit, the buzz about the restaurant continued to crackle. The snow kept some people away, but die-hard food lovers milled about, soaking in the cozy room and the Marc-is-in-the-house vibe. There is a lot to love about Amis: the bold, rustic flavors, the sleek atmosphere, the presence of a celebrity chef. But how much can Vetri grow while keeping the tight quality control that has made him what he is in the first place? The execution of dishes must be uniformly excellent to ensure his continued ascent. He’s set the bar that high.

1 2 < PreviousView as One Page

Be respectful of our online community and contribute to an engaging conversation. We reserve the right to ban impersonators and remove comments that contain personal attacks, threats, or profanity, or are flat-out offensive. By posting here, you are permitting Philadelphia magazine and Metro Corp. to edit and republish your comment in all media.

  • Marcella

    My husband and I celebrated at Amis just shortly after it opened and fell in love. Everything we had was great, never been disappointed by Marc’s food. We enjoyed so many great things, all to the hig

  • Rachael

    I ate ate Amis with three other people and we were all very disappointed. We waited over an hour for our table only to find our food not up to the standards we’ve come to expect at restaurants like

  • Andy

    I tried to book a reservation within the time constraints the restaurant offers and the only times available are 5:30 or 9:30. It seems the restaurant it holding tables for exclusive customers and is