Taste: Eat This Now: Smoke

Philadelphia restaurants serving up house-smoked delicacies.

Smoking may be banned in the dining rooms of Philadelphia’s food establishments, but it isn’t, thankfully, verboten in its kitchens, where chefs are getting creative with clouds of wood smoke. We’re far beyond barbecue and the standard smoked salmon. Now the signature earthiness of smoldering wood chips is applied to every imaginable ingredient, from rainbow trout at West Philly’s White Dog Cafe to savory sauces at Rittenhouse’s Lacroix — and even french fries and onion rings at the Cira Centre’s Rae.