Adam Erace says that Serpico is everything we wanted it to be and maybe even more.
The dashi haunts my dreams. It comes ice cold, an umami-dense tonic of kombu broth fortified with bonito, mirin and soy so inexplicably refreshing it should be served with a Collins glass and a straw. Instead, the staff pours it tableside over a landscape of purslane, charred pea tendril, shiso, compressed zucchini, cucumber pearls in sugar-snap pea pods and cubes of chilled crème fraîche that look like tofu and taste like mozzarella. If you order only one dish at Serpico, make it this one. If you order only two dishes, make the second the decadent egg custard. The mix of eggs and dashi steams in its own little cocotte till barely set; wobbling like a panna cotta, its brown-butter-submerged surface bears enough rare Siberian sturgeon caviar to explain the $25 price tag.
Photo by Jessica Kourkounis