Where We’re Eating: Kanella, Still Compelling

34_Kanella_Emily Frances Olson

Kanella, the endearingly small, five-year-old Cyprian BYO sits at the corner of 10th and Spruce, containing wicker chairs, wooden tables, and exposed brick walls graced with copper cookware. Anything more would be a disservice to the chef. Food is the focus here, and there’s a certain nece­ssitarianism to Konstantinos Pitsillides’s coo­king—an effortless persuasion that this sort of cuisine should only be prepared by him, that there is exactly one way to compose each dish, and that Pitsillides is the only chef in the world doing it correctly. Soak your bread in the brightly spiced yogurt sauce that accompanies the lamb dumplings, and let his famed “katsiki” stew’s layers of flavor unwind for a lifetime. His food is convincing, his talent is compelling, and his restaurant is still worth a visit. Or a hundred.

Kanella
1001 Spruce Street
215-922-1773

Photo by Frances Olson

First appeared in the May, 2013 issue of Philadelphia magazine.